A New York Minute By Dane Maharaj

Well-made, thoughtful, tasteful things

My business partner Muzi Mabuza and I met at a Skepta concert and quickly became close friends over a shared love of 'nice' things. Not necessarily expensive; but well-made, thoughtful, tasteful things. Food and drink have always been key, and we often joked about starting our own place since many eating establishments focus more on interior design than the actual dining experience.

After meeting with restauranteurs Marc and Marcel Cronje - whose establishments Muzi and I had both frequented for years - we decided to launch an institution that would celebrate the South African Indian food - mutton bunny, chops chutney and fried sardines - I grew up with in Durban.

For any Indian South African, food is a vital part of our culture. We love to cook, eat and feed. Food is woven into the fabric of not only my personal identity, but the identity of my entire community.Beyond my community, the food that has evolved in SA since 1860 through the South Asian diaspora has become a part of our national food culture. Achar, bunny chow and samoosas can now be found across our proud nation.

So, with a solid origin story in place, proven operational partners, a bit of start-up capital, and an obsession with 'nice' things, we'll open Mother-In-Law in Craighall Park, Jo'burg in October. Our elevated speakeasy celebrates the South Indian diaspora in a way that you probably haven't experienced before but will be familiar with - authentic food in a warm yet simple setting and a focus on 'nice things'.

So why did we have to go to New York as part of the preparation? Well, as my second favourite city (Jo'burg will always be my first love) and having worked at a very fancy Manhattan steak-house over a decade ago, living in New York was a formative experience of my life and gave me an insight into the most competitive restaurant market in the world. The standard at which the industry operates in New York is the global standard for the casual but elevated dining experience.

With this is mind, Muzi and I decided to go on a 'research and development' trip to New York to learn from the best. What follows is a list of the very finest that we experienced and what we look to bring to our own establishment.

Clandestino
A Lower East Side cool-guy institution that's situated in the heart of fabled 'Dimes Square'. Sit outside at one of the unbalanced tables set up on the pavement, order a delicious gin martini, and watch some of the best-dressed young people in the world go by. Takeaway: Simple drinks, served well in the correct setting, is sometimes all you need.

Scarr' Pizza
Scarr's serves some of the best pizza in Manhattan in an environment that makes you feel immediately cooler just by being there. The space is tiny, but the energy is massive. Grab a booth in the back or sit at the bar, order a whole pie and a few cans of Presidente beer and enjoy the simple joy of good music, good pizza and an ice-cold pilsner. Before you leave, grab a DJ Clarke Kent lemonade to help that pizza digest. Takeaway: Be singular in your approach and don't over-complicate your vision. Get the basics right and the rest will fall into place.

Café Mogador
This Moroccan café has been in the East Village since 1983, which in New York restaurant terms is well over a century. The tables are worn, mismatched and suit each other perfectly. Nothing is curated and the charm of its patina has been earned through the passage of time and regular patronage. Whatever you order, make sure you get a side of the delicious merguez sausage. Takeaway: Authenticity is everything, but it must be earned. You don't need a gimmick to keep people coming back; just genuinely great food and good service.

Apotheke
Think hip Manhattan cocktail bar or speakeasy and this place comes to mind. Hidden away down a cobbled Chinatown alley, and with no signage on the door, inside is a sparsely lit, expansive bar with music playing at just the right volume. Stereotypes aside, the place absolutely delivers on the whole mixology experience - just don't expect to see any dry ice or theatrics. Go there before or after dinner to experience excellent drinks made skillfully using the finest ingredients. Try any cocktail with mezcal in it. Takeaway: It's okay to have a lot of style if you have the substance to back it up.

Dr Clark
This place is everything an establishment serving 'elevated' food from their own culture or community should strive to be. A Hokkaido-style Japanese restaurant in Manhattan where every aspect of the dining experience has been considered. It's trying very hard, but you don't really care because it executes everything so well. I asked our server what they thought I should order, and tasted 12 different dishes; all of them great. It's hard to get those odds right. Try their shochu sour cocktail if the weather is warm (or even if it isn't). Takeaway: Consider every detail of your guests' experience. Let your staff experience what you want your patrons to so they can give the best possible guidance to everyone they serve.

The restaurant industry is a volatile one. Someone once told me that if you want to make a small fortune, start with a large one and open a restaurant. But with anything, your success is often dependent on preparation and effort.

Muzi and I had the privilege of preparing in the best possible way - by physically experiencing our aspirations at every bar and restaurant we visited. What we learnt is that you don't need complicated food, massive spaces or elaborate décor to be successful. Stick to the basics, do them well, use the best ingredients and don't try to be something you're not.

Simply put, people value a dining experience where the determination and authenticity of the establishment is palpable. And that's what Mother-In-Law will be. Our history, effort and dedication served fresh, daily.